I was happy to hear read it because, man, surfing is all about the stoke! And this girl's enthusiasm made me smile :)
Being originally an "inland surfer", I understand what it means having to drive for hours just to find a decent spot with surfable waves. And when you finally get to the ocean, all your dreams come true!
That's why I decided to share Luca's ocean adventures with you guys. Hope you enjoy it!
I am a 25 year old Hungarian girl, I was a catamaran sailor for many years. A few years ago I found surfing and I totally fell in love with it.
Last year I managed to go to a girls' surf camp in Algarve, and Concha - you know her from the Seasoul Shelter article - taught me how to paddle, pop up and ride small green waves. Portuguese point breaks were THE PERFECT first experience!
This year I joined the Hungarian surfing community (you wouldn't think we have one, right? 2000 km away from the ocean! But we do have a small, but very committed group of fantastic people!) and went to France to ride some waves.
We rented a coastal house at Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains and spent a wonderful week by the ocean. Although it was a more advanced spot than Portugal, I enjoyed every bit of learning! The green waves were quite big, the whitewater offered great opportunity to improve my surfing. I was riding a 7 feet semi-foamie board (the next step after last years big fat yellow foamboards), explored the waves, the nature of the tide and it was amazing.
We rented a coastal house at Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains and spent a wonderful week by the ocean. Although it was a more advanced spot than Portugal, I enjoyed every bit of learning! The green waves were quite big, the whitewater offered great opportunity to improve my surfing. I was riding a 7 feet semi-foamie board (the next step after last years big fat yellow foamboards), explored the waves, the nature of the tide and it was amazing.
We also visited Capbreton and San Sebastian. At the latter I ate the world's greatest mussels at La Mejillonera and saw Aritz Aranburu surfing (!!).
Too bad it was only one week, but I am already thinking about how to go back in the spring, and how to make possible for Hungarian surfers to ride more waves. I think this restlessness is the essence of surfing: looking for the endless summer, the perfect wave... We, in Hungary, are only looking for some rideable waves, and we are very committed to find them!
Words: Luca Michaletzky
Photos: Tunde Bognar
Too bad it was only one week, but I am already thinking about how to go back in the spring, and how to make possible for Hungarian surfers to ride more waves. I think this restlessness is the essence of surfing: looking for the endless summer, the perfect wave... We, in Hungary, are only looking for some rideable waves, and we are very committed to find them!
Words: Luca Michaletzky
Photos: Tunde Bognar
Hi Luca,
ReplyDeletehow amazing to see you are still as stoked as when you left :) the Chicks On Waves surf and yoga camp last year in Portugal . So happy to see that we really succeed in our mission to get more women surfing and sharing the stoke. Hope to see you back soon in the water for a surf together :) , lots of love Katrien (Chicks On Waves)
Dear Katrien!
DeleteYes, I am still so stoked! And Chicks On Waves was my first step - it was an amazing first step! :) I would love to go back to you to surf together, those perfect green waves were fantastic! I hope to get back to Algarve next year! :) Love
I too love the soft light which appears at the time of sun rise.Its something to die for.I also couldn't resist myself from taking the pic of these priceless moments.
ReplyDeleteThis may provide us good things and I am sure that I would always be part of such adventures at ocean.
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