Hi all! This is Blair, coming to you from California! I am so excited to have the opportunity to reach out to you via Surfragette, to share my views, thoughts, experiences, and love of surfing with you. I’d like to start off with a few thoughts about how grateful I am for surfing. I’m sure many of you can relate, and I thought it would be a good place to start, since I am so grateful to be able to share here with you. Surfing is such a very special gift, and I am so thankful for it for so many reasons.
Surfing has brought so many gifts into my life, and I have so much appreciation for each of them. Truly, I can’t imagine life without surfing, as it plays such a large part in my life and who I am as a person. But with all that I have gained, it would not mean so much if it weren’t for the gratitude that I have for surfing to put things into perspective.
Surfing is for me, as I’m sure it is for many of you, my passion. It allows me to get through the week with sanity and a clearer perspective as to what is most important. Sometimes life can get difficult, but because I have surfing to make me happy and give me strength and peace, I know I can get through the challenges that I am faced with. I realize that I am very fortunate to be able to have something that allows me to express myself in a constructive way and makes me so happy, and I feel that everyone needs a similar sort of outlet/escape from the world. For each of us, whether it is surfing, another sport, photography, music, or art, I believe that each of us should strive to find what lights us up inside, and gives us that inner glow so that we can be the best we can be for the world. It is so important to have something like that, as it gives an important meaning and purpose to life.
As I was teaching a friend to surf recently, I realized how I have changed in terms of my perspective of my daily surf sessions. Although I always feel better after I have surfed (even after a bad session), I was startled to realize that now it takes more to make me happy than when I first began. When I was new to surfing, it would make my entire week if I caught a single wave! Over time I have gotten pickier about the conditions, and less satisfied if I didn’t catch a lot of waves. Of course my skill level has improved significantly in that time, so it is natural to expect more from myself, but at the same time I should be more thankful just for the chance to paddle out and play in the sea. I have been working on this every day, and as a result I have gained more happiness, bliss, stoke, and gratitude. I will continue to work on it, but I encourage each of you to not take the little things for granted, and try to be happy in the moment, especially if you’re surfing.
“Life is short, do what you love” – Garrett McNamara, big wave surfer
Credits // Author: Blair Buder
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