So, what do you normally do on a warm sunny day? I would say surfing, but the waves were way too big for my skill level, the swell hitting up to a 2,50m height. So, I decided to spend the weekend at the beach! In a bikini! I was like, wtf? And my deep self was thinking about all the times I saw pictures on facebook of people sun bathing and swimming in the sea in May, while here it is still pouring rain and almost wintery weather. This one's for you guys, I was thinking. But yet this was just jealousy, I love you all!!!
And I couldn't help snapping some pictures of the swell too. A few guys were brave enough to paddle out and the ocean gave an amazing show as usual.
The Halloween night I hung with a girl friend in Biarritz. We watched the huge waves breaking at sunset and went to the last Woody Allen movie, which I actually liked :)
So, overall it was a pretty quiet yet bizarre couple of days.
The Halloween night I hung with a girl friend in Biarritz. We watched the huge waves breaking at sunset and went to the last Woody Allen movie, which I actually liked :)
So, overall it was a pretty quiet yet bizarre couple of days.
What about you? I hope you had a crazy weird Halloween weekend!
xo
We had unseasonably warm weather in Ireland too. I make a last minute decision to share a lift to Donegal (from Dublin) with some Italian friends the day after Halloween. I was up at 5.15am, a time of day that is totally alien to me. My friend's car is pretty small & I was hoping the drive up wouldn't be too painful, my back is in bits. We drove through fog on the motorway as we started our journey but the gods smiled & the sun came out. We got to Rossnowlagh & were greeted by some chunky waves. I'm always nervous until I catch my first few waves. There was a light offshore wind which cleaned up the waves & paved the wave for some sweet rides. I got brave in the middle of the session & those hours of driving were worth it for those seconds of bliss. When you do those few extra strong paddles & you feel the board catch the wave like a magnet on a fridge. You feel connected. Your mind clears, you smile & feel a wellness that's unique to this wave & this moment & this place.
ReplyDeleteThen it's back in the tiny car with the speeding Italians & 2 days recovery while my back clunks back in to it's misaligned shape.
Sunny not spooky.
Hi! Thank you for sharing your story here! Through your words I can feel it must have been one of those amazing unexpected days. Especially the lines "You feel connected. Your mind clears, you smile & feel a wellness that's unique to this wave & this moment & this place." This is SURFING. And all those feelings are the reason why we get up early, drive for hours and then get in the water even while the winter winds blow stronger and stronger and the temperature gets lower...
DeleteWould you be interested in writing an article for Surfragette about surfing in Ireland? It would be so interesting!!! :)
Let me know here or drop me a line at surfragette@gmail.com
Cheers - Marta