Reading choice // Surf Mama by Wilma Johnson

Summer's for reading and I know it's mid autumn already but this book will make you feel the ocean breeze all year long.

I chose Surf Mama because this is one of a kind book. 

Wilma is 44 and needs a shake to her life. So with kids and a-soon-to-be ex-husband she packs her bags and moves from Irland to Biarritz, where she discovers the surf.

So yes, even if you're not in your forties or you're not a woman you can identify in her experience, celebrate for her first waves and understand the changes surf can bring into your life.

Because this is a book of change and every surfer knows how your first wave transforms your life forever.

Breaking all the stereotypes of genre and age, Surf Mama really touches you, whether you lived the protagonist's same experiences or not. You hold Wilma's hand all along the story rolls and if you live in Biarritz area like I do, you'll find yourself recognizing all the familiar places and spots and smiling at the common jokes about a different culture.

But this book is for all surfers - to remind ourselves the magic surfing brought into our lives, the firsts steps on the waves and that genre and age can never be an obstacle to the pursuit of the life we dream of.



Credits // Author: Marta Tomasini, Book: Surf Mama by Wilma Johnson, Bag: Rip Curl, Sarong: Costa Bikinis