Reading Choice // Swell by Lauren Davies

Nothing more promising than a book named Swell. This is my latest read and you have to believe me when I say I'm so sad I finished it.

Swell takes you to the exotic and exciting atmosphere of the surfing world tour, following the adventures of Bailey Brown, English writer and biographer of the 12-times world surfing champion Jason Cross.

For Bailey the surf world was a totally unknown matter, before she met Jason at a glam party in LA. The stunning statuesque surfer offers her the opportunity of a lifetime: write his biography and follow him on the world tour, during a whole year on the best beaches around the globe. From that day on, between her first experience on a surfboard and a stolen kiss, she discovers the danger, the glamour and the drama behind the competitive surfing - giving credit to a job, the professional surfer, which is not always what we might expect. Most important, she discovers how to live.

Swell has everything a novel, a surf novel, could have: action, great waves, stunning locations, six-packs everywhere and the right amount of drama and love that we like so much.

Lauren Davies, the author, knows well what she's writing about, since her life has been spent traveling around the world to follow her husband, professional surfer and four-time British surfing champion Gabe Davies, chasing waves in exotic locations.

“When I’ve told people my husband is a professional surfer, they don’t quite understand or realize how often they’re putting their lives at risk,” says Lauren

Nothing more to add. I just suggest you to read it and let yourself be overwhelmed by the magic atmosphere and the tropical locations of this novel. 

Plus, in winter time, dreaming about bikinis, warm surf and sandy toes is a great remedy to beat the winter blues ;)

Credits // Author // Photography: Marta Tomasini, Book "Swell" by Lauren Davies

Reading choice // Surf Mama by Wilma Johnson

Summer's for reading and I know it's mid autumn already but this book will make you feel the ocean breeze all year long.

I chose Surf Mama because this is one of a kind book. 

Wilma is 44 and needs a shake to her life. So with kids and a-soon-to-be ex-husband she packs her bags and moves from Irland to Biarritz, where she discovers the surf.

So yes, even if you're not in your forties or you're not a woman you can identify in her experience, celebrate for her first waves and understand the changes surf can bring into your life.

Because this is a book of change and every surfer knows how your first wave transforms your life forever.

Breaking all the stereotypes of genre and age, Surf Mama really touches you, whether you lived the protagonist's same experiences or not. You hold Wilma's hand all along the story rolls and if you live in Biarritz area like I do, you'll find yourself recognizing all the familiar places and spots and smiling at the common jokes about a different culture.

But this book is for all surfers - to remind ourselves the magic surfing brought into our lives, the firsts steps on the waves and that genre and age can never be an obstacle to the pursuit of the life we dream of.



Credits // Author: Marta Tomasini, Book: Surf Mama by Wilma Johnson, Bag: Rip Curl, Sarong: Costa Bikinis